The engineer usually puts all the components onto a suitable work surface for programming in the system. A typical installation will consist of the control panel, two wireless passive infrared sensors, two wireless magnetic contacts for the external doors, and two wireless external self-acting siren boxes for the exterior walls.
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As soon as you power the system up the control panel asks you for your own unique user code and then you ask if you would like to enter a second user code, which we usually decline. As you complete each step of the setup process you are then prompted to move on to the next step.
The next important step is to program in each individual component of the wireless alarm. The control panel asks you if you would like to add a sensor and you then activate each one you include in the system by pressing the test button on each individual sensor and it is then acknowledged by the control panel. You can add up to 20 individual sensors on the Yale Wireless alarm.
You then move on to programming in the external siren box which is the same process as the sensors, with the siren unit flashing and peeping to acknowledge that it has been included in the program by the control panel after it has sent a test signal from the panel.
We usually then move into the section of the program which is called the advanced section which allows you to set the amount of time for exit and entry and also for the length of time that the siren unit will run in alarm condition. You basically want the minimum amount of time possible to be able to enter the building with ease and to be able to disarm the system.
The last and important part of the programming is to go into the edit devices section and choose each individual magnetic contact or infrared sensor and decide whether it will be an instant alarm setting, entry setting, or home setting.
1 Instant setting is exactly what it suggests it just means if a sensor is triggered when the alarm is armed it is immediately triggered into a full alarm condition.
2 Entry setting means that any sensors that are triggered once the alarm is armed will begin the incoming timer allowing the person to get to the control panel and switch off their unique code number. Usually, the only sensor set for entry is the one on the entrance door to the building.
3 Home setting means that if you press the home button instead of the full alarm set button when arming the system, any sensors set to this setting will be omitted from the program. An example of when this will be useful would be if you have a passive infrared on the first-floor landing next to the bedrooms, if you press the home button all the sensors downstairs which are programmed would immediately trigger the system, but the sensor upstairs on the home setting is omitted from the program during the night allowing access to the bathroom.
At this point the engineer has got a fully functional wireless alarm set out in front of him on the work surface, the next step is to fix the main control panel to its desired location and then to go into the programming and select walk test mode. The engineer then takes each individual sensor to its intended location and presses the test button on the actual sensor, at which point the control panel then peeps to acknowledge if it is in a workable range with the main control unit. It also puts the name of that sensor for visual confirmation on the control panel.
The wireless security alarm is now ready to have all the senses fixed in their desired locations.
The magnetic door contacts have sticky adhesive pads, but we prefer to open up the actual wireless magnetic contact case and to fix the backplate to its desired location but then to also fix the backing plate permanently with screws, so that it can never drop off.
The passive infrared is easily opened with one screw underneath and then there are designated knockout sections across the back where you can fix and screw the passive infrared to the wall.
The actual main control panel itself is usually fixed near a power socket for the step-down transformer to be plugged in. Also, there is the autodialler lead from the control panel which needs to be plugged into a telephone socket, so that also has to be nearby unless you intend to use extension leads for either the power of the telephone autodialler. If this means that the situation of the control panel is going to be too far away from the entrance door to be able to disarm the system quickly, it is sometimes a good idea to add an additional wireless remote keypad. This allows you then to disarm the system quickly whenever the main control panel has been situated in the building. Often we will place the main control panel upstairs in a bedroom near the additional telephone socket and set the control panel to be silent with no entrance timer is audible, which means that if an intruder broke the entrance door open they would not be up to find the main control panel and autodialler easily and quickly, allowing the autodialler to ring out and send a warning message of the intruder being in the building.
Finally, when all the sensors have been fixed in their location, it’s a simple process of testing each one by setting the control panel and triggering the system. The last function is usually to plug-in the autodialler and to make sure that it is ringing the designated numbers and playing the warning message.
There are other functions of the Yale Wireless Intruder alarm, like the ability to be able to ring in on your buildings telephone landline and switch the wireless alarm system on remotely from a mobile or landline number and test the system.
There are also other useful features like the mobility mode, which allows the engineer to be able to program the system to pick up human movement within a set period of time and if it does not it would then send out a warning message that maybe somebody is ill in bed and not moving around inside the building. Usually, this is a period of ten hours allowing people to be able to sleep during the night without the mobility warning going out.
